
Dear reader,
In my last letter I told you about Korean cicadas and why they sing so loudly. Today let me get more practical about the heat itself. At some point on your trip, you’ll find yourself standing on a street with no shade and no air conditioning in sight. When that happens, there’s something Koreans actually use. It’s called a mudeowi swimteo (무더위쉼터), literally a “heat wave shelter.”
So, what is a heat wave shelter?
A heat wave shelter is an air-conditioned space the government opens up during the hottest months. Community welfare centers, libraries, banks, senior centers, subway stations, and even convenience stores and traditional market service centers are all designated as heat wave shelters across the country. Anyone can walk in and rest for free, no eligibility, application, or reservation required. You just open the door and sit down.
The system was originally built for the elderly and others vulnerable to heat, but in practice, nobody turns anyone away. It’s not at all strange for a traveler to duck in for a few minutes just because it’s unbearably hot outside. During official heat wave warnings, many of these spaces even extend their hours.
Where to go
Here are the ones most useful for a traveler.
- Subway stations. The most accessible heat wave shelter by far. Seoul alone has about 4,000 designated shelters, but in practice, many people head for the subway before they head for a community center. The air conditioning is strong, there’s plenty of seating, and you can walk in anytime. If you’re already getting around by subway, ducking into the nearest station when you’re overheated is an excellent way to cool down.
- Community welfare centers (jumin center). Every neighborhood has one. Look for the heat shelter sign at the entrance, and you’ll find an air-conditioned waiting area inside.
- Libraries. Cool and quiet, good for both escaping the heat and taking a proper break.
- Banks. Many bank lobbies are designated heat shelters too. Just keep in mind banks only operate during business hours.
- Traditional market service centers. An unexpected one, but the customer service office inside a traditional market is often air-conditioned and designated as a shelter. A convenient stop if you’re browsing a market.
How to find one
You can look up exact heat shelter locations through the government’s Safety Didimdol app (안전디딤돌) or Naver Map. Search “무더위쉼터” and nearby shelters show up on the map. If you’d rather check online, the Ministry of the Interior and Safety runs the National Disaster and Safety Portal (safekorea.go.kr), where you can search for shelters by region. That said, both the site and the app lean heavily Korean, so they can be a bit clunky for a traveler. The simplest approach in practice is just to walk into the nearest subway station. In Seoul and other major cities, a station is almost always close by, well air-conditioned, and a space any traveler can use without a second thought.

Tips for travelers

A few things worth knowing.
- Subway stations, libraries, and community centers are all walk-in, no permission needed.
- Remember that banks are only open during business hours.
- Department stores and large shopping malls aren’t officially heat wave shelters, but they’re free to enter and superbly air-conditioned, and locals love them for exactly that reason. As the heat has intensified in recent years, Korea even coined a new term for it: mall-cance (몰캉스), a blend of “mall” and “vacance,” meaning spending your day cooling off in a shopping mall. If you’re walking around a department-store-heavy area like Myeongdong or Gangnam, feel free to join the mall-cance crowd yourself.
- Since 2026, Seoul has also introduced small outdoor cooling shelters called haepiso (해피소) in spots like Gwanghwamun Plaza. They’re compact air-conditioned pods where you can step in for a few minutes of relief, worth looking out for if you’re passing through the area.
To sum up
Korean summers are genuinely brutal. But knowing that relief is nearby, and free, makes the whole trip easier. If you’re out walking and the heat gets to be too much, don’t hesitate to duck into the nearest subway station or library. Nobody will think it’s strange. If anything, that’s exactly how Koreans get through the summer.
See you in the next letter.
From a sweltering Seoul, whigoori

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